The science of soap is more complex than one might imagine, requiring at least a rudimentary knowledge of chemistry. Even the most basic ingredients of soap rely on key reactions with other ingredients - a give and take that makes you wonder that we ever figured out how to make soap in the first place. It makes some sense then, that the creation of cleansing products was supposedly discovered by accident.
Historians believe that the word “soap” is derived from the ancient Roman temple site at Mount Sapo, a spot used for the regular ritualistic sacrifice of animals. Animal fat would then run down the mountain and into the nearby Tiber River, combining with fire ash and forming a substance that women, innocently washing their clothes on the river’s banks, soon found particularly handy.
There are other, even earlier historic appearances of soap-like substances; Babylonians boiling fats and acids for primitive hair gels; the ancient Gauls concocting a similar mixture to use as a hair dye. In fact, most early soaps were used in this way, as pomades and styling products, as long ago Vidal Sassoons obsessed over their locks.
The Dark Ages put a stop to all the primping and preening, however and it wasn’t until much later that soaps began to appear again in a variety of forms, most of them combining animal or vegetable fats with ash or sodium.
Fragrances were added, herbs such as rosemary and lavender and flowers such as rose were simmered down to essentials oils and added in for sweet smelling baths. In the 12th Century, olive oil became the preferred fatty element for soaps, with olive rich Spain and Italy becoming epicenters of soap manufacturing. Castile was also used as a veggie alternative to animal fats.
Considered a luxury item, however, soap was highly taxed by most countries and available only to the wealthy until well into the 19th Century. Which meant that if you wanted to be clean, you either had to be rich, or figure out how to make soap yourself, which many did.
Experimenting with a variety of forms, soap-making boiled down to basic chemical reactions – fatty acids melding with sodium or potassium (ash, lye, potash lime)– the latter’s alkali bonding with the fat, eventually forming what is essentially a salt. That said, it may not be the tabletop kind, but soap is a salt nonetheless.
Today soap is manufactured all over the world, by enormous corporations and mom and pop soap shops alike. What was once a grueling backyard chore amid the stench of melting animal fat and toxic lye is now a product you can purchase at any local convenience store. The best soaps, however, are manufactured on pretty much the same principles developed hundreds of years ago, only leaning away from the animal derived to a bevy of natural ingredients that sound more like mealtime than a bathtime– such as honey, milk, lavender, oatmeal and olive oil. Yum!
The copy of above racist advertising by the British Pears’ Soap reads: “The first step toward lightening The White Man’s Burden is through teaching the virtues of cleanliness. Pears’ Soap is a potent factor in brightening the dark corners of the earth as civilization advances, while amongst the cultured of all nations it holds the highest place - it is the ideal toilet soap.”
Below another Ivory Soap advertising with restrained homoerotic copy.









5 Comments
Those ads are so interesting. Thanks for sharing.
soap has also become more and more important in the mania for youth. the fountain of youth by Lucas Cranach the Elder seems like a bath where only soap needs to be added… thanks for the interesting article.
Pears’ Soap - what a terrible company. And when you go on their website it feels like they haven’t changed one bit.
Oh. My. God!! I’m switching teams, and switching to Ivory Soap. My wife insists the Ivory ads are fakes- made for a gay graphic design competition, or a gay magazine. I say they were originals intended to appeal to the female buyers of household goods (what hunks!), quite possibly designed and propagated with a nudge and a wink by knowing creatives.
Love the Ivory Ads.